By Eileen Mintz
The newest local cookbook in town is named, Savor Seattle. I only know about it because I spent the past year following its progress. This beautifully photographed book consists of 200 pages that are filled with the best recipes from 25 of Seattle’s top restaurant kitchens and paired with the finest wines from 25 Northwest winemakers. It’s the perfect companion for the home cook who wants to make the dishes found at many of the area’s finest restaurants. Featured as the first in a series of culinary spotlights, Savor Seattle will soon be followed by Savor San Francisco, Savor New Orleans and Savor Montreal. Sounds like I will want this collection!
“We are thrilled as to how impressed the restaurant and winery owners are with the finished cookbook,” said Islander native, Jacqueline Harris Curran, director of sales/U.S. specialty markets for Elton-Wolf Publishing.
So why not take the cookbook to many of the restaurants to have it personally signed? “Each chef would love to give a few hints on their recipes to make sure they come out perfectly,” said Harris Curran. You can count me in to follow up with that idea!
“Savor Seattle is a coffee table cookbook featuring kitchen-tested recipes presented as four-course menus,” noted Beth Farrell, president of Elton-Wolf Publishing. Also included are facts about each of the restaurants and wineries, with food photography by Kate Baldwin.
Bon Appetit!
SALTY’S SEAFOOD CIOPPINO
Executive chef Dan Thiessen believes this is the perfect Northwest seafood stew and he describes it as a “two-napkin bowl from the sea.” Thiessen suggests that you can substitute any type of seafood and it will still come out delicious. Pair it with 2002 L’Ecole No. 41 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Semillon. Serves 6.
1/2 cup canola oil
3/4 cup onion
1/2 cup fennel (fresh)
1/2 cup each of red and green peppers
2 Tbs. of garlic
1 tsp. red chili flakes
1/2 Tbs. ground fennel seeds
2 Tbs. of tomato paste
12 oz (1 1/2 cups) of roma tomatoes
3/4 cup red wine
3 cups fish stock or water
1/2 lb. salmon
1/2 lb. prawns
1 lb. mussels
1 lb. clams
1/2 lb. scallops
1 precooked Dungeness crab
1 cup dry sherry
6 oz. butter
In a heavy-bottomed pot, warm 1/4 cup canola oil over medium heat. Add onion, fennel, red and green peppers and garlic. Cook until the vegetables are slightly soft. Add red chili flakes (can use less), thyme and fennel seeds. Cook 1 minute longer.
Add tomato paste and diced Roma tomatoes. Deglaze the pan with wine. Cook for 5 minutes. Add stock or water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes. Now you have the base for the Cioppino stew. Set aside.
In a large soup bowl, heat the remaining 1/4 cup canola oil over medium heat. Add the diced salmon, prawns, mussels, clams, scallops and crab.
Pour in the base from the other pot and cover. Cook for at least 4 minutes until all of the clams and mussels steam open. Deglaze the pan with sherry and finish with butter. Plate into large bowls and serve with a thick hearty bread.
NELL’S BLACK COD WITH SAFFRON ROASTED CAULIFLOWER AND SPINACH
Nell’s owner, Philip Mihalski, suggested topping the cod with sour cream mixed with a bit of citrus or chives. This dish pairs well with the 2001 merlot from Di Stefano Winery, Columbia Valley. Serves 6.
6 6oz. pieces of black cod with skin on
1 small head of cauliflower
12 oz. cleaned spinach
2 tsp. shallots, finely chopped
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. olive oil
1/4 cup white wine
1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 tsp. saffron
salt and pepper
Cut the core out of the cauliflower. Slice into pieces about 1/4 inch thick. Bring wine to a boil and reduce by half. Add saffron and stock. Bring back to a boil and simmer for about 5 minutes.
In a large sauté pan, add 1 Tbs. oil and heat over medium heat. When hot, add cauliflower and salt and pepper. Cook, turning often, until lightly browned. Add saffron broth. Continue cooking until cauliflower is tender and liquid has reduced.
While cauliflower is cooking, heat a large sauté pan over high heat with 1 Tbs. of oil. Season the cod on both sides with salt and pepper. When pan is smoking hot, place cod in pan, skin side down. Cook about 4 minutes until skin is well browned. Turn fish and cook for 2 to 4 minutes more, depending upon thickness.
Heat 1 Tbs. of butter with shallots. Add spinach to wilt. Season with salt and pepper. Add remaining 1 Tbs. of butter to cauliflower. Check seasoning.
In 6 large flat bowls or plates, arrange cauliflower with saffron sauce on bottom. Divide spinach and place over the cauliflower on each plate. Place the cod on the spinach. Garnish with sour cream and chives. Enjoy.
ICON GRILL BRAISED PEAR SALAD
One of executive chef Nick Musser’s most wonderful fall salads. Pairs well with Canoe Ridge Vineyard chardonnay. Makes 4 larger salads or 8 smaller ones.
4 Bosc or Bartlett pears
2 Tbs. butter
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 Tbs. pickling spice
2 Tbs. sugar
Cut pears in half and core. Place flat side down into baking dish. Sprinkle all ingredients evenly over pears. Cover with a lid or foil and bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes or until pears are just tender. Do be careful, as riper pears will cook more quickly. Check after 10 minutes. Let pears cool. Cut each into 4 slices lengthwise and set aside.
Dressing
1/2 cup raspberry vinegar
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses (available at Whole Foods)
1 small shallot, peeled
1/2 egg
1 1/2 cups olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
Place shallot, egg, vinegar and molasses into a blender or food processor. Puree with two or three short bursts until mixed. While running, slowly drizzle in oil until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper as desired.
Pecans
1 lb. pecan halves
4 Tbs. butter
1/3 lb. brown sugar
1/2 egg
2 tsp. salt
dash of cayenne pepper (optional)
1 Tbs. chili powder
1 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. ground pepper
1 tsp. ground coriander
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
Salad
1/2 lb. mixed baby greens
1/4 lb. Oregon blue cheese crumbled
Melt butter and set aside. In a mixer or by hand, beat eggs and sugar until thick and creamy. Add all spices and slowly drizzle in butter until incorporated. In a bowl, mix pecans with butter/sugar mixture to coat the nuts evenly. Place the nuts on a cookie sheet and cook in a 300-degree oven for 20 minutes. Stir the nuts every 5 minutes, so that they cook evenly. When golden brown, set aside to cool.
Toss greens in a bowl with pears and add as much dressing as desired. Place salad evenly on plates, arranging the pears on top. Sprinkle with blue cheese and pecans.
THE FISH CLUB’S BIBB SALAD WITH HAZELNUT VINAIGRETTTE GORGONZOLA BLUE CHEESE
The wine pairing suggested is a Yakima Valley cabernet franc rose from Chinook Wines, owned by Kay Simon and Clay Mackey in Prosser.
2 heads Boston bibb lettuce
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted
8 to 10 oz gorgonzola blue cheese cut into small blocks and frozen
1/4 cup hazelnut oil
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 red onion, shaved thin
4 bunches mache or lambs lettuce (for garnish if desired)
fresh squeezed lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste
Gently clean lettuce by removing the core and picking the stems. Wash and gently let dry. Rough chop toasted hazelnuts and combine with hazelnut oil. Gently toss lettuce in bowl with a little olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Stack on plate. Top with a spoonful of hazelnut oil mixture. Add in a pinch of red onion.
Generously grate gorgonzola cheese over salad with a fine grater. If desired, garnish with a bunch of mache or lamb’s lettuce and serve.
THIRD FLOOR FISH CAF^mj HALIBUT CEVICHE
This recipe is from chef Greg Campbell. Goes well with 2000 Apex chardonnay Outlook Vineyard, Yakima Valley. Make when halibut is in season. Serves 4.
1 1/2 lb. fresh halibut filet, skin removed
juice of 4 limes
1/2 bunch cilantro, minced
1/2 red onion minced
1/2 jalapeno minced
2 roma tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 avocado, diced
Dice the halibut into 1/4 inch or smaller pieces. Cover with fresh lime juice. Season with salt and pepper. Marinate for at least 4 hours or overnight. When fish is done marinating, drain excess juice and toss with red onion, cilantro, jalapeno and diced avocado. Adjust the seasoning. Serve with tortilla chips.
ASSAGGIO’S TIRAMISU
I tasted this recipe from Assaggio Ristorante owner, Mauro Golmarvi and it is truly fantastic. He returned last month from cooking at the James Beard House in New York. Serves 4 to 8, depending on how big you cut your pieces.
1 14 oz. pkg. ladyfingers
3 cups of coffee
1/2 cup Marsala wine
1 cup of espresso
1/2 cup sugar
1 qt. heavy cream
1/2 cup cream cheese
1/2 cup mascarpone
1 cup sugar
4 whole eggs
cocoa powder as needed
Combine coffee, Marsala, espresso and 1/2 cup sugar for soaking the ladyfingers. Combine whipping cream, cream cheese, mascarpone cheese, sugar and eggs for the cream.
Soak each ladyfinger individually in the coffee mixture. Layer in the bottom of a shallow pan (8- or 9-inch square pan) Add a 1-inch layer of cream mixture. Add another layer of the ladyfingers soaked in coffee mixture. Add another 2-inch layer of cream mixture. Smooth surface. Sprinkle with cocoa powder. Refrigerate for 24 hours and then cut into desired serving-sized pieces.
SERAFINA’S PROFITEROLES WITH BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE
Chef puts three on a plate as they are wonderful to share. Serves 4 or more.
1 cup whole milk
4 oz. butter
pinch of salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 whole eggs
Chocolate sauce
5 oz. bittersweet chocolate
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup sugar
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bring the milk, butter and salt to a boil. Add the flour all at once and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together. Transfer to a mixer and mix using the paddle attachment. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until the dough is smooth and glossy. Pipe onto a greased baking sheet, first making a 2-inch round and then another on top. Makes a total of 12 profiteroles with the double piping. Bake 15 minutes, rotating at 7 minutes.
Combine all ingredients for the sauce and put into saucepan. Warm over low heat until chocolate is melted and sauce is smooth and glossy.
Slice the cooled profiteroles in half in the middle and make a sandwich using your favorite ice cream as the filling. Top with a drizzle of the warm chocolate sauce. Serve immediately.
PONTI SEAFOOD GRILL MOLTEN CHOCOLATE CAKE
This is a favorite from chef Josh Green. Serves 6.
8 oz. Schokinag chocolate pistoles (64 % or higher) or high-grade chocolate
8 oz. butter
1/2 cup sugar
2 1/2 oz. flour (heaping 1/4 cup)
5 eggs
In a double boiler, melt the chocolate and butter. Add the sugar and 1 1/2 tsp. of water.
In another bowl, beat the eggs and the flour until smooth. Combine the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture. Pour 4 oz. into buttered baking dishes. Cook at 500 degrees for 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from oven when just barely set. Run a knife around the inside of the baking dish to release the cake from the pan. Place an inverted plate over the dish, then flip the cake and plate over to serve. Garnish with whipped cream and seasonal berries.
Savor Seattle can be ordered through Island Books or online at www.amazon.com. Following is a list of all the restaurants and wineries in the book:
Assaggio Ristorante, Basel Cellars, Brasserie Margaux, McCrea Cellars, Cactus, Hogue Cellars, Campagne, Syncline Wine, Chiso, San Juan Vineyards, El Gaucho, Leonetti Cellar, Fish Club, Chinook Winery, The Georgian, Reininger, The Herbfarm, Chateau Ste. Michelle, The Hunt Club, Kestrel Vintners, Icon Grill, Canoe Ridge Vineyard, Nell’s, DiStefano Winery, Oceanaire, Woodward Canyon, Ovio Bistro, Dunham Cellars, Ponti’s Seafood Grill, Waterbrook Winery, Rover’s, DeLille Cellars, Salty’s on Alki Beach Seafood Grill, L’Ecole No. 41, Sazerac, Harlequin Wine Cellars-Seastar, Matthews Cellars, Serafina, Columbia Winery, Six Seven, Quilceda Creek Vintners, Sky City at the Space Needle, Snoqualmie Vineyards, Troiani, Buty Winery, Third Floor Fish Café, Apex Cellars, Waterfront and Woodhouse Family Cellars.
Eileen Mintz can be reached either by email at eileenmintz@comcast.net or by phone at 232-1984.