Long pants, long sleeves, and a head net covering my face did nothing to prevent a horde of mosquitoes from devouring me. With nowhere to run, nowhere to hide, I tearfully admitted defeat. Together with my husband and then-young sons, we broke down our campsite and hiked out of the North Cascade Mountains. It was too late to drive back to Mercer Island. The big question was “where to sleep tonight?” As newcomers to the Pacific Northwest, we knew nothing about eastern Washington. We searched for the biggest nearby city on our AAA map.
Hungry and tired, we pulled into Wenatchee and found a basic hotel room near the entrance to town. The broad avenue was lined with big-name chain stores, fast-food restaurants, and a sign, “Apple Capital of the World.” That explained the huge packing houses we’d seen along the highway.
Flagging down a woman walking to her car, I asked, “Are there any family-owned restaurants around here?”
“A few Mexican places,” she said, then pointed across the street. “Visconti’s serves Italian food – their roasted mushrooms are to die for.” Sold!
Even dressed in dusty camping clothes and accompanied by two young boys, we were warmly welcomed, and the food was divine. That’s as true today as it was 28 years ago, when we first walked in.
Wenatchee, where the Columbia and Wenatchee Rivers merge, offers surprisingly little waterfront activity. Bikers and walkers can circuit the river on the 10-mile Apple Capital Loop Trail. A Discovery Pass grants access to 194-acre Confluence State Park, with boating, fishing, and camping. For me, Wenatchee is a destination for supplies, or to catch a movie. It’s a good stop-over when heading to Lake Chelan, or to Mission Ridge for skiing or mountain-biking.
Fifteen years ago, we built a vacation home in Cashmere, midway between Wenatchee and Leavenworth, and two-and-a-quarter-hours from Mercer Island. When people ask “Why Cashmere?” I joke, “Have you been to the Anjou Bakery?” Tucked between pear and apple orchards, Anjou features French-quality bread, pastries, sandwiches, and coffee. The fuller answer is “spectacular mountain views, hiking, snow-shoeing, and an easy drive from home.” If I-90 is backed up, Highway 2 is a second option.
Across from the Aplets Way entrance to Cashmere, Nahahum Canyon Road leads to the new Cashmere Canyons Trail, created for hikers (no horses or dogs). Aplets Way approaches Cashmere on a short bridge adorned with crates of Golden and Red apples. Head to Doane’s Pharmacy for an old-timey soda fountain treat. A few blocks south, behind the tracks on Railroad Avenue, Side Street is a brand-new cluster of art, business, food, beverage, and music options. The Brassbound Collective features thirty-two local vendors including Dandelion, a consignment children’s shop, and The Hat Bar, where grownups can customize basic hats with feathers, beads, ribbons, and more. Finish your visit with a tour of the Aplets and Cotlets Candy Kitchen, to see how those delectable confections are made, and sample them fresh from the kitchen.
At the far end of Cottage Avenue, near Cotlets Way, the Cashmere Museum and Pioneer Village is a fun destination for the whole family. Outdoors, nearly two dozen authentic cabins and stores dot spacious grounds, showcasing life in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Indoors, explore Native American objects, geological specimens, taxidermy and ornithology. On Sundays, a farmers market features live music, assorted vendors, and the best bagel I’ve had outside of New York. Bavarian Bagel Co. also sells at the Leavenworth farmers market on Saturdays.
Leavenworth is arguably the best known and most beloved of these towns. Surrounded by mountains, and with Bavarian-themed architecture, it has an ersatz Alpen feel. Half a dozen brew pubs and distilleries are big draws, especially during Oktoberfest, scheduled for the first three weekends of October, 2024. Another hugely popular time to visit Leavenworth is from Thanksgiving to February. Christmas-themed performances, and trees adorned with half a million colorful lights elicit oohs and aahs from huge crowds.
Year round, check out A Book for All Seasons, Whistlepunk Ice Cream, and South Restaurant. For a short walk, Waterfront Park has shaded trails. And finally, for opera lovers, consider visiting on a Saturday when the Metropolitan Opera does its Live in HD broadcasts. The Snowy Owl theater, adjacent to Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort, has a large screen, comfortable seats, and fresh pastries and champagne for sale before the 10 am screening and during intermission. This is opera’s best seat in the house, and at $35 a ticket, a terrific bargain.
Wenatchee, Cashmere and Leavenworth are all accessible from Highway 2. Enjoy your visit to these unique mountain towns, which truly offer something for everyone!
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Meanderings is a travel column by Mindy Stern, a Mercer Island resident whose essays can be found at www.mindysternauthor.com.
