An Oregon Garden weekend with art, food and music

Before there was a Washington, there was Oregon. It was a fabled land of extremely fertile valleys, rivers so full of salmon that you could catch them by hand, and mountains so high, the snow stayed year-round.

Before there was a Washington, there was Oregon. It was a fabled land of extremely fertile valleys, rivers so full of salmon that you could catch them by hand, and mountains so high, the snow stayed year-round.

Oregon was the destination for many a pioneer. The Great Migration of new seekers and settlers began in 1843. Whether north or south of the mighty Columbia River, it was all Oregon in those days.

For Pacific Northwest explorers today, Oregon still explodes with fun weekend destinations, many in the broad Willamette Valley, an easy four-hour drive from Seattle. The pinot and chardonnay wine country of Yamhill County has been a big draw for 20 years. The Willamette’s college towns of Corvallis’ Beavers and Eugene’s Ducks are annual treks for Husky fans. Art lovers know Oregon’s best and largest gallery well — the Lawrence — which opened first a few miles west of McMinnville.

Now there is another reason to vacation in the heart of the Willamette region, especially if you are a gardener, a fan of architecture or love pioneer history. The Oregon Garden and its on-premises, spanking new 103-room Oregon Garden Resort are located just outside the historic hamlet of Silverton. It is a good reason to spend a couple of days on the 45th Parallel.

Located 15 scenic miles east of Salem and 40 miles south of Portland, exactly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, this garden cornucopia is a trip worth taking for any nature lover. We visited over the Fourth of July weekend, at the height of the summer growing season, and what a celebration of agricultural abundance. On the farm roads from I-5 to Silverton, we drove past zucchini fields, exotic oriental pine farms, potato plantings, cherry orchards, waving wheat, barley and rye acreage, Christmas tree farms, raspberry rows, multicolored poppy fields that you can see from miles away, rows of lavender reminiscent of Provence, and that is just the start.

In fact, it was the farmers and nurserymen of this area who first envisioned the Oregon Garden. They wanted to showcase the fact that just about anything grows well in this not-too-cold, not-too-hot, not-too-wet, not-too-dry valley. The Oregon Garden tells this story well.

After our impressive breakfast at the Oregon Garden Resort, we hopped aboard the tram as we entered the Garden. The 80-acre botanical sanctuary is large. It features over 20 individual gardens, such as the conifer area, a special garden for kids, and a series of ponds that cascade down the hill, purifying Silverton’s city water supply while it hosts lily pads, frogs and turtles. The Home Demonstration Garden is perhaps the most visited of all the gardens.

I like the pet-friendly garden, the farmer’s garden, the Lewis and Clark garden, and the rose garden. Apparently, the local deer like the rose garden as well. After a full-circle, 45-minute ride on the tram, we stayed on to ride out to the far reaches of the 80 acres. Then we took a leisurely hour to stroll back with lots of stops for photos along the way.

On site, but with a separate entrance, is the Gordon House, the only Frank Lloyd Wright home open to the public in the Pacific Northwest. The Gordon Home was built in 1964, a few miles away from Silverton. Upon the Gordons’ deaths, the house was bequeathed to the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation. It was moved in 2001 adjacent to the Oregon Garden, and today it is open to visitors.

The Oregon Garden Resort opened just recently. It is owned and operated by the Moonstone Hotel Properties of California. Moonstone is well regarded for its collection of inns and resorts south of Big Sur Country and recently opened the Oregon Garden and the Village Green resort a few miles south of Eugene, near Cottage Grove. The adjacent gardens that accompany the Village Green are worth the stop by itself. Clearly, Moonstone’s owners love gardens.

Back at Silverton, the Oregon Garden Resort features an outdoor heated pool and hot tub spa, a large breakfast area with fabulous views across the Willamette, a full-service day spa, and an ample complementary breakfast buffet. The rooms are gathered together in pods, with each unit enjoying its own fireplace and a private patio. Room rates are attractive, varying from $89 to $159, depending on time of year and event weekends.

I recommend at least a four-hour stay at the Garden itself. After you have had your fill of nature, hop in your car and experience the eight covered bridges that are kept in pristine condition along the back roads east of Salem. In doing so, I came to appreciate the active energy that these Willamette farmers have to keep their spreads productive and their neighborhoods spanking clean.

A visit to the cute villages of Silverton and Mt. Angel is a great way to pass several hours. These vital historic farm towns have few vacant storefronts. Things are popping in this verdant area. Atop the hill above Mt. Angel is an active priory for today’s men of the cloth. In Silverton, the Silver Grille Café and Wines Restaurant serves “Best Places” quality dinners at surprisingly reasonable prices. It is a must stop, open Wednesday through Sunday.

If you go…

For the Oregon Garden, visit the Web site at www.oregongarden.org. There are major events including concerts (Three Dog Night or Juice Newton & Crystal Gayle, for example), the Wine Festival on Aug. 22 and the “Stop and Smell the Roadsters” outdoor Car Show on Sept. 13.

For information, prices and reservations for the Oregon Garden Resort, call (503) 874-2500.

For information about the Gordon House by Frank Lloyd Wright, phone (503) 874-6006 or visit the Web site at www.thegordonhouse.org.

Bill Morton can be reached at www.secondhalf.net.